The last time we ate at Hyde Park Bar & Grill in Austin, we were psyched to see a “Central Texas raised Kobe (Wagyu)” burger on the menu. ["Kobe" is the place in Japan known for this particular type of beef; "Wagyu" is the breed of cow used in Kobe, but also raised in America.] My husband is a big fan of the hamburger, but not of how most hamburger beef is produced. Central Texas sourcing, though, is a strong indicator of humanely raised, grass-fed cows. This is because beef tagged with origin information generally hasn’t gone through an industrial-style feedlot, where origin information is lost, and most cows in Texas are pastured. Hubby didn’t hesitate to order one.
When he ordered, I asked the waiter where it came from more specifically — i.e., what ranch. He didn’t know, and I told him not to worry about finding out at that moment since it was a busy Saturday night.
When I called the restaurant Monday, I learned that that it sources beef for that burger from Winn Meat, the same distributor Olivia uses, so I dropped Winn a line. Winn Corporate Chef Jamie Samford replied, “There are Kobe cattle located in central Texas but we do not currently source from them.” Their American Kobe comes from “many ranches all over the US.” Samford suggested that Hyde Park Bar & Grill may have “used the central Texas Kobe previously and have not changed the menu” and said that he would clear up any confusion on the part of the restaurant.
Printing new menus may be expensive and inconvenient for a busy restaurant, especially considering the vicissitudes of nature that can wreak havoc on sourcing. [Distributors like Winn Meat ensure consistent quality in spite of that variability.] It’s a lot to keep track of. But food matters. Some argue it’s essential to life.
2 Comments
I’ve always been a fan of Hyde Park, but this is disturbing. Hyde Park has been charging a $3 premium for this burger, while playing up its Central Texas source.
I wonder how widespread this is among Austin’s old-line restaurants. They take every chance to promote their local ties, but at the same time they want the cost savings offered by the large food distributors.
Is there such a thing as a local food distributor? Part of me thinks that is a contradiction in terms — but, then again, that’s the whole point of a locavore movement.
Another great discovery. I love their Kobe burger and get it with Jalapenos, Provolone, and Bacon. I feel good believing it’s from Texas. Maybe we need a local watchdog group to help vendors stay on top of their marketing and keep consumers well-informed.
Mason Arnold
Greenling.com
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